Traditional Lardy Cake

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A traditional pastry from the rural countryside of England’s West Country, these currant-studded lardy cakes, baked to caramelized perfection, offer a true taste of 19th century baking at its best. This authentic lardy cake recipe is one of my very favorites and I think you’re going to fall in love with it too!

One of my most favorite of all traditional English bakes, Lardy Cake is something I have gone out of my way for on several occasions when we’ve visited England. Just ask my husband: a two hour detour to Wiltshire just to stop at a bakery that makes these. Fortunately I’ve been able to recreate the very best of the best versions I’ve had so that I can make it at home whenever I want. This traditional lardy cake recipe doesn’t cut corners nor does it skimp on that most important ingredient: LARD. Wonderfully moist and flavorful with that irresistible caramelized outer layer, trust me when I say that you’re in for a real treat!

This is one of those recipes where if you have to ask how much fat or how many carbs and calories it has, just don’t even bother making it. And in that same vein, if you’re trying to make a “skinny” version of lardy cake, just make something else. One of my favorite German phrases applies here: Wenn schon, denn schon. Which means, if you’re going to do something, DO IT. Do it right. Go all out. Lardy cake isn’t lardy cake if you hold back.

What is Lardy Cake?

It’s more bread than it is cake and, as its name suggests, it’s made with lard. LOTS of lard. Unlike most pastries that contain some lard or butter, lard is THE central ingredient in this traditional English bake. Think of how much butter is used to make puff pastry or French kouign-amann and then liken that to lardy cake. In fact, there are similarities in the method: lots and lots of butter, or in the case of lardy cake lots and lots of lard, and the dough is then folded and rolled out, and folded and rolled out again multiple times (though with puff pastry it’s done many, many more times). This process of folding and rolling is known as lamination in the pastry world and is what creates layers within the dough.

Aside from lard, the ingredients that go into making lardy cake are flour, yeast, sugar, sometimes mixed spice (a traditional British blend of spices), and dried currants (which aren’t currants at all in spite of their name; they’re actually a small variety of raisin known elsewhere as zante raisins or zante currants). The enriched yeast dough is baked in a baking pan with the lard collecting at the bottom. After it’s baked it’s given a brushing of golden syrup, then it’s inverted so that the bottom that’s all nice and caramelized from the lard is now on top, like an upside-down cake (and the lard can now penetrate down into the cake), and it’s cut into squares to serve.

Where Can You Find It?

Nowadays lardy cake is often referred to as Wiltshire lardy cake though neighboring areas, including Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire, likewise claim it. I do think that Wiltshire has perhaps been the most proactive in reviving this traditional bake that dates back to at least the mid-19th century. Wherever its county of birth, it is safe to say that its origin lies in the rural countryside of the West Country. Finding bakeries that still make lardy cake takes some dedicated searching but fortunately there are some bakeries, particularly in Wiltshire, that have brought the tradition back.

A few years ago I found a couple of bakeries in Gloucestershire that made them but they unfortunately shied back from using enough lard so the cake was pretty dry and lacking that caramelization. It was the same with another bakery I found in Wiltshire on a subsequent trip though it was an improvement over the first. When we were in England earlier last month I found a bakery in Royal Wootton Bassett that understands the role of lard in lardy cake and not only do they use a generous amount, the lardy cakes were seriously the size of my head! We bought two of them and made it a day of indulgence.

The lardy cakes we bought at this bakery clearly came from two different batches, one being quite pale and the other as dark as the ones I made in my photos. I wanted to compare the two for flavor and texture so I bought one of each. Both were good but in my opinion nothing beats the flavor that comes from that rich caramelization, so don’t be afraid to leave it in the oven a little longer. Unless you really over-bake it, the lard will ensure you have a moist crumb.

Essential Ingredients for Lardy Cake

Let’s talk lard. Quality lard is imperative. Do not use the store-bought stuff, most of which is not pure lard but has been processed and modified with added chemicals and who knows what. I very strongly recommend rendering your own lard. Not only is it incredibly easy, it’s cheaper and you’ll get a high quality product. Check out my tutorial on How to Make Lard.

Can I Substitute Butter?

That was just thrown in for comic relief. But if you really were going to ask: No. Lard is the whole point of lardy cake!

Can I Use Raisins Instead?

Yes. Unlike the previous question (which would be committing an unpardonable sin), raisins or sultanas can be substituted. If you have access to dried currants (aka zante raisins) I recommend though as they are much smaller, remain firmer, aren’t as overly sweet, and don’t bloat and get as squishy as raisins. You can order dried currants online (in the U.S. they’re called zante raisins). Additionally, if you like you can add some finely chopped candied orange peel and/or lemon peel (click the link for my recipe – homemade makes ALL the difference).

Baking Tips

I cover all the baking tips to ensure your success in step-by-step photos below. But I’ll leave you with one additional baking tip from Jane Grigson, the highly influential English cookbook author born in Gloucestershire (1928-1990) who worked tirelessly to preserve and promote the traditional English cooking that she loved:

“The more lard, sugar and fruit you can cram in, the better, so that the dough is layered with brown sweet richness. Next time you may like to add more, or you may not. It probably will depend on how much Wiltshire mud runs through your veins.”

I clearly inherited a good amount of Wiltshire mud from somewhere, even if through adoption.

Traditional Lardy Cake Recipe

Let’s get started!

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, add the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, lard and water. 

Knead for 4-5 minutes until the dough is soft and no longer sticky.  Shape into a ball, lightly spray the bowl with oil, return the dough to the bowl, cover loosely with plastic wrap.

Let the dough rise in a warm place for 40-60 minutes or until doubled in size. 

Punch down the dough down. Grease a 9×13 inch / 33x23cm baking pan.

Transfer the dough to a floured work surface.

Roll the dough out into a rectangle a little larger than the baking pan.

Spread lard thickly onto the entire surface of the dough.

Sprinkle the dried fruit onto 2/3 of the length of the rectangle.

Sprinkle the sugar onto about 2/3 of the length of the rectangle followed by the mixed spice.

Taking the short end of the rectangle, fold it into the center.

Fold the other side on top of the other fold so the rectangle is folded into thirds like a letter.

Fold the top of the rectangle down to the center and then fold the bottom up.

Gently flip the dough over so the folds are on the bottom.

Roll the dough out into a rectangle, this time a little smaller than the size of the baking pan, being careful not let the dried currants rip through the dough (if this happens, it’s okay). Repeat the folding pattern, flip the dough over, and roll into a rectangle the size of the baking pan.

Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let it rest for 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400 F / 200 C.

Transfer the dough into the greased baking pan, pressing it gently to fit. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm place for 40-60 minutes or until nice and puffy.

Use a dough scraper or knife to cut through the dough down the center lengthwise.

Then cut across the dough to make eight equal sized pieces.

Pick off any fully exposed currants (otherwise they will burn).

Bake the lardy cake for about 30-40 minutes or until it is a deep golden brown.

Remove from the oven and prepare the glaze by stirring the water and golden syrup together in a small bowl.

Brush the hot lardy cake with the glaze. Let it sit for about 10 minutes and then invert the cake onto a baking sheet so that the bottom of the cake is now on top.

Let the cake cool.

Cut the pieces and serve.

Store the lardy cakes in an airtight container at room temp.  They are best eaten within a day or two but will keep for a few days.  They can also be frozen.

Enjoy!

For more traditional British bakes be sure to try my:

• Treacle Tart
• Sticky Toffee Pudding
• Spotted Dick
• Cornish Fairings
• Victoria Sponge Cake
• Welsh Cakes
• Mince Pies
• Scottish Shortbread
• Flapjacks
• Bara Brith
• Parkin
• Eccles Cakes
• Crumpets