Solyanka

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A delicious combination of smoky, salty, and sour, Solyanka soup is made with a variety of fresh, smoked and cured meats, pickled vegetables, and a rich beef broth, creating a unique symphony of flavors. This authentic Solyanka recipe captures everything that has made it a beloved soup for generations.

What is Solyanka?

Solyanka is a savory-smoky-sour soup made with a variety of meats (fresh, cured, smoked) and pickled and brined vegetables which contribute to its classic tanginess, all in a tomato-infused beef broth. Because of its astringent/sour qualities it earned the nickname “hangover soup” because it was thought to help alleviate hangovers, though it really isn’t “that” sour, at least not the way it’s made today (more on that later).

Solyanka is of Russian origin and sources I’ve seen say that the recipe dates back as far as the 15th century, a dish that was especially popular among Russian peasants as a way to use up leftover ingredients (various leftover meats and pickled vegetables). Hence the meaning of its name which translates to “food of the villager” or “villager’s stew”. It was regarded as a dish unworthy to grace the tables of the aristocracy but by the 19th century it was embraced by the population at large (as with the humble beginnings of such dishes as Beef Bourguignon and Coq Au Vin which eventually made their way onto the menus of Paris’ most upscale restaurants). It’s popularity spread throughout Eastern Europe, including Ukraine, Belarus, and former Eastern Block countries that were influenced by Russian culture and cuisine via Soviet occupation. Its popularity likewise spread to East Germany after WWII in the Thuringia region where my Bavarian-born Mutti and Oma and Opa lived for several years before escaping back to the West. It’s still served in restaurants throughout East Germany where it is spelled Soljanka and they commonly use a smoked pork cut called Kassler in the soup. Solyanka is one of those dishes that has stood the test of time, capturing the hearts and stomachs of people for generations throughout a vast geographic area.

Solyanka Ingredients & Substitutions

As I mentioned above, the Solyanka of today typically isn’t as sour as the older versions. Again, if it was sour enough to be regarded as a cure for hangovers, it was substantially more sour than it is today. Most recipes today incorporate some tangy ingredients like pickled cucumbers, olives and capers, but the other vegetables are typically fresh, including the cabbage. Historically many of the vegetables added would have been pickled as this was the means for preservation to make them available through the year and they would have grabbed and used what they had on hand. Among other things I have a strong hunch that traditionally the Russian home cooks would have used sauerkraut (check out my recipe), and that would have substantially raised the sourness level of the soup. I think the sauerkraut adds a really nice flavor touch and so I include a combination of cabbage and sauerkraut (be sure to also check out my German Sauerkraut Soup).

Let’s take a look at the ingredients in my Solyanka recipe:

• Meats: Solyanka uses a variety of meats – beef, pork, chicken, even fish – in fresh, smoked and cured form. We’re using bacon, kielbasa sausage, smoked pork/ham, and chicken or beef. A common addition in the former East German version is Jagdwurst or Fleischwurst, which is a German bologna. If you have access to a German deli (some specialty sections of grocery stores carry it too), you can use a few ounces of that as well, cut into thin strips. Even salami makes a really nice addition. You can use any combination of these meats, but variety is what makes it so flavorful, especially having a combination of smoked and cured meats (reminiscent of Brazilian Feijoada and French cassoulet).
• Fresh Vegetables: Onion, celery, carrots and green cabbage are used. While celery stalk are standard in most English-speaking countries, many European countries, including Eastern European countries, traditionally used celeriac (aka celery root). The flavor is richer and earthier and if you want are more genuine Russian/Eastern European flavor, use celeriac.
• Pickled and Fermented Vegetables: To contribute the sour flavor component, we’re adding pickled cucumbers, sauerkraut, olives and capers. Sauerkraut in the U.S. is almost all quick-pickled in vinegar instead of slowly fermented with salt like most European sauerkraut. The flavor difference is night and day. For an authentic flavor (and frankly much better flavor), use German or European-style sauerkraut or a brand that is actually fermented and not pickled (there should be no vinegar in the ingredients) or you can make your own sauerkraut (click link for recipe, its very easy!). Likewise I strongly recommend using German or European-style pickles for the best, authentic flavor. I’ve seen them at World Market and even at some Walmart locations where there is a larger German population. For the olives you can use either black or green depending on your preference.
• Tomato Paste: Don’t confuse this with tomato sauce or passata. Tomato paste is highly concentrated and is a thick squeezable paste. In the U.S. it comes in small cans, in Europe it comes in tubes.
• Beef Broth: I love to roast beef marrow bones and make my own beef broth. But I don’t always have the time and when I need a good-tasting beef broth in a pinch I’ll use Better Than Bouillon.
• Seasonings: The seasonings in Solyanka are minimal, the soup deriving most of its flavor from the various meats. You’ll just need sweet paprika powder, bay leaves, salt and pepper.
• For Serving: After the soup is ladled into bowls you can serve them topped with a dollop of sour cream or creme fraiche, a sprinkling of chopped fresh dill, green onions, or parsley, and a half slice of lemon.

As you can well imagine, the flavor of this soup is even better the next day after all of these rich flavors have had time to develop and meld. So if you can hold out until then you’ll be well rewarded!

Solyanka Recipe

Solyanka soup is made by frying the bacon and cooking the meat, followed by the vegetables. The remaining ingredients are added to the pot, it’s brought to a boil, and then simmered for about 30 minutes. It’s then served with an optional dollop of sour cream, a slice of lemon, and some chopped dill, green onions or parsley. While it’s ready to serve immediately, as I mentioned above the flavor is much better the next day, so I recommend making Solyanka a day in advance. This soup will keep in the fridge for 3-4 days.

Enjoy!

For more delicious soups from around the world be sure to try my:

• Hungarian Goulash
• Harira
• Zurek
• Wonton Soup
• New England Clam Chowder
• Japanese Mushroom Vermicelli Soup
• Caldo Verde
• Masoor Dal
• Scotch Broth
• Matzo Ball Soup
• French Lentil Soup
• Minestrone Soup
• Avgolemono
• Cullen Skink
• Hungarian Mushroom Soup
• Pozole Rojo
• Wonton Soup
• German Potato Soup